Did you know that in the last 50 years global consumption of tuna has increased tenfold? That some 80 percent of the world’s fish stocks have been effectively “fished out?” That some experts predict we could run out of seafood entirely by 2048?

Actually, as a Fresh Picks subscriber you probably you know some of these facts. The dire condition of the world’s fisheries has been getting a lot more public attention of late thanks to initiatives like the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch program. But in the context of the local foods movement, fish still often remains a culinary mystery. Everybody else might go and deal with the chicken leg from Keegan-Filion Farm or Caw Caw Creek pork,” pointed out a Charleston, South Carolina, fisherman in a recent New York Times piece on the subject. But ask your waiter if the fish was caught by a Charleston fisherman and “see what kind of deer-in-the-headlights look they get.”

Luckily, journalist Charles Clover has made it his mission to make the task of learning where your fish comes from a little easier. Clover’s scathing 2006 book, The End of the Line, detailed just how years of mismanagement and environmentally destructive practices have brought fish populations in every ocean to unsustainably low numbers. Now his film of the same name is making the rounds, to rave reviews. (A Chicago screening is apparently in the works. Details are unconfirmed but we’ll let you know what develops.) And, in a boon for consumers, Clover’s just launched the U.S. edition of his website Fish2Fork.com . On it, you can plug in the name of a restaurant and find out just how its fish rates on the sustainability scale, “rat out” a restaurant serving endangered fish species, and get the latest on sustainable fish news. It’s far from comprehensive but it’s a great start.

At Fresh Picks we usually stock local tilapia from AquaRanch, in downstate Flanagan – though right now it’s not available, as, according to Irv, it’s too expensive to keep the greenhouse warm enough for the fish to thrive. In general, though, tilapia’s one of the most sustainable fish around. Though native to Africa, it’s hardy, grows quickly, and is easy to farm in a variety of aquaculture settings. And, of course, it’s also delicious – flaky, mild, and very versatile. Try frying some up for fish tacos, or grilling it with a nice beurre blanc!